It’s hard to justify going to an exotic place (like L. A.)
for world con.
I know that many of my friends make this as a sort of
pilgrimage. I don’t have that desire. To me, WorldCon, while fun, is part of
the business. I don’t say I don’t enjoy it. I say that travelling three
thousand miles and spending a thousand dollars on hotel bills isn’t sufficient
justification for me.
A couple of years ago, my wife suggested we glue a vacation
to an adjacent locale along with attending WorldCon. This tipped the balance in
WorldCon’s favor.
Last year, WorldCon was in Seattle and we spent a week prior
going through the Channeled Scablands—which I talked about here.
This year, WorldCon was in Los Angeles. I was born and
raised in and around Los Angeles.
Southern California has a lot to offer and we had to pare
the trip down from what could easily have been a month to only five days.
We flew into Fresno on Friday and were tired we didn’t do
much. So the trip really began the next day.
Saturday: This had to be Sequoia National Park. My family
rented a cabin there when I was six or so and some of my earliest memories was
of the trees. Wendy had never seen them and there was a lot of talk of fires,
Sudden Oak Death Syndrome, and the like that suggested they giant trees were
not long for this world. So, we took a day and hiked as far as I was able.
It’s hard to get across the scale of these monsters. I mean,
humans can look at a night sky, or a mountain, or the sea and recognize
something greater than themselves. But these are not living things. A whale is
about as big, I think, as a human can grasp that this is a living thing.
And I’m not sure even that works with something like a blue whale.
(Not that it kept us from killing them.)
But these make whales look tiny.
They’re old and they look it. Many of them (like
several in this picture) are scarred from fires. Some, like the one on the
right died of one. But that even exemplifies their age. The dead stump on the
right had clearly been consumed by fire. But there was no fire sign around it.
There were some others that faced it that showed burn marks—implying the it did
not survive but they did. Then, there were other trees with a different burn
mark pattern—implying a subsequent fire.
And then there is this grove, near the burned ones, that has
no fire marks at all.
I think, in this area, there were (at least) two big fires.
The first consumed the stump and burned its neighbors. Then, there was another
fire that scarred some of the other trees but either skipped the older, burn
victims or where the damage was not great. And since then, this other great
grove has grown.
Sequoias are interesting in several ways. First, the bark is
not hard like an oak. Instead, it is fibrous—feeling like a substantial short
fiber carpet. Then, in the burn scars, pitched has been exuded and hardened.
Some parts are as hard and shiny as obsidian.
We hiked around the are for several hours and found, in that
time, two young trees. We were happy to do so. We had seen many, many great
giants and middle-aged giants—sequoias don’t taper much as they grow so these
are much bigger for the same height than other trees. But we didn’t see any
babies. We were getting a little despairing when we found first this one:
I think this is only a few years old.
Later we found this one. I expect this is less than two
years old.
The future of the sequoias may not be bleak.
Sunday: There were two big reasons we flew into Fresno. The
first is that it was only an hour away from the park. The other is Forestiere
Underground Gardens.
We found this on YouTube about a year ago and was
fascinated. Baldassare Forestiere immigrated here from Sicily in the early part
of the twentieth century. He wanted to raise fruit trees. He bought some land
in Fresno to do that very thing but found it was covered in hardpan—soil with a lot of
embedded sedimentary rock. He could not grow a thing here.
Fresno is hot in the summer. Brutally hot. It was over a
hundred when we were there. It felt like being in an oven. Forestiere couldn’t
farm his land so he had to hire himself out to make a living. Remember the
brutally hot part? Now, imagine digging ditches.
The nights weren’t much better so Forestiere built a small
cellar to escape the heat. Then, he extended it. Lo and behold, once he dug
down a half dozen feet or so, he found topsoil. Well, he says to himself. I
have water. I have soil. The heat is bearable. All a tree lacks is sunlight.
So, he opened up a skylight and planted a tree. Which, over a hundred years
later, is still there.
The gardens
are still there. And it is somewhere between 10-15 degrees cooler. Forestiere
worked on the place his entire life and, it is estimated, he may have dug out
as much as 20 acres of underground garden. But he left without heirs. His
brother finished some of the work Forestiere left but he could not maintain
such a large structure. Over time, different sections were sold or filled in.
Now, there is a bit over three acres left. It is still in the family and tours
are given.
The entry walks you underground and you can feel the
temperature drop. Then, they take you carefully through several different
rooms, galleries, and tunnels. Here are a few highlights.
This is a sort of cathedral room. It has several fruit trees
and one, great, grape vine. I couldn’t fit the room properly into a picture but
I think this gives the sense of the thing.
The pattern is tunnel through an arch, then a growing space
with a skylight or a functional room.
Some of the spaces were large enough to be actual
courtyards.
One interesting thing about the place is it didn’t smell
musty or feel dam. Forestiere understood drainage and saved the water. He built
a fish pond inside.
I could go on for hours—I have on the order of a hundred
pictures or so—but I have other things to talk about.
We left Fresno and went west. The plan had two Spanish
missions on it and we didn’t want to miss either one.
The missions were established between 1769 and 1833. There
were 21 of them. Each of them was a city in and of themselves with churches,
slaughterhouses, crops, etc. Pretty much all built on the backs of indigenous
slave labor.
I’d been to San Juan
Capistrano when I was a child but that was too far away for this trip.
Instead, we planned to visit San
Miguel Arcángel and La PurÃsima Concepción.
San Miguel Arcángel was our first stop. It is an actual,
working church. The parking lot was filled with parishioners which we carefully
avoided lest we give offense. This is a model of the place.
Most of the mission was closed to the public. The church was
occupied with a baptism. Almost all of the buildings were occupied with people
on retreat. So, while we did spend a fair amount of time there, we don’t have a
lot of pictures.
On the way to Cambria—the next place we were staying—we did
run across an oil field. It was fairly large—perhaps 10 acres or so. It
reminded me of when I was a child in Long Beach. These donkeyhead wells were
everywhere. The place smelled like my childhood.
Monday: We spent the next morning looking for rocks on Moonstone Beach. This
is a beach that appears dominated by Scotland: a cool, wet, foggy beach while
we were there. People’s pictures of rocks are of no interest to anyone but
themselves, so I won’t bore you with them. We did find one moonstone, we think,
and some other interesting specimens.
But this was one geological feature that we saw over and
over. This is called
tafoni
and the geologic origins of this is unclear. I thought I had stepped into a
Roger Dean
painting.
From Cambria, we proceeded south, stopping where we will.
One beach, of sorts, we found about half way to our
destination of Goleta. This layered rock
was all over, and eroding mightily. We found bits everywhere.
It was eroding so much that there had been some problems
with the cliffs falling down. This was remedied by vast slabs of concrete.
Which had been scored to look like the underlying rock.
Tuesday: It was on this leg of the journey that we stopped
at Mission La PurÃsima Concepción.
This is not a working church but a museum. The mission has been well
restored and it is huge. Several vast buildings, major areas given over
to crops and gardens. A tannery. A slaughterhouse. Stables. Paddocks. Corrals. Various
church spaces. At its peak, there might have been better than two thousand
people—mostly indigenous, and mostly slaves.
I found this map
here. It’s not
a great map. Each of the buildings had a chapel. There was a lot more than
weaving in the first building. We found a leather shop, carpentry, several
kitchens, several meeting rooms, a library, and much else.
This is that first building.
This is the chapel in the first building.
Then, we visited the La Brea Tarpits on
our way to Santa Monica—our last stay before Los Angeles.
Unfortunately, the museum
and much of the park was closed.
But we still could walk around the main pond. It bubbled and
stank, as I remembered as a child.
Wednesday: We had three Stations of the Cross I wanted to
visit before we reached WorldCon.
The first was the baptism in the Pacific Ocean.
We hadn’t had much chance to just
walk in the ocean since we
got here. We had some time before the other two Stations, so we walked to the
beach and just, well, walked in the water for an hour or so. I have some
video but few pictures.
The second was the Autrey
Museum of the American West. This was not because I had any love of cowboys
but because the Autrey Museum had acquired the Southwest
Museum of the American Indian. I’m very interested in indigenous pottery
and this promised to be interesting.
I have to say I was disappointed. Several of the galleries
were closed. The remaining ones that did have indigenous art was mostly modern
with very little history of any depth. And, as I said, cowboy culture isn’t
what I was interested.
The last Station was the
Griffith Park
Observatory.
When I was very young we lived in several parts of the L.A.
area: Santa Monica, Long Beach, Anaheim, Thousand Oaks, etc. Going into L.A.
was always a treat and going to Griffith Park was a special confection. I don’t
have many pictures but I do have some video.
And with that, we drove down to WorldCon in the home of
Disneyland, Anaheim, California, not a mile from where I had spent five years
as a child.
But that is another tale.